The popular Amaryllis - how to grow, water, and generally keep fit.

Originating in South America, the Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a tender bulb. Often confused with the Belladonna Lily (Amaryllis Belladonna) and the Amaryllis Hippeastrum hybrid which is usually offered for sale in the autumn and flowers in the winter or spring whereas the Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) flowers in the autumn.

The bulbs must be at least 18 cm in circumference and kept warm (20°C to 24°C) temperatures for 9 to 10 months to ensure flowering and vegetative growth, followed by 2 to 3 months of either cool (10°C) dry storage or cool (12°C) growing conditions to promote re-flowering of the bulb.

Most marketed bulbs are Dutch, Israeli, or South African grown and produce 3 to 6 flowers per cluster. Very large bulbs normally produce 2 clusters. Flowers can be red, white, pink, orange or purple coloured, and sometimes can be edged or striped in other shades. Plant heights range from 46 cm to 92 cm depending on the type, origin and growing conditions.

New to the market are Dwarf Amaryllis such as 'Toronto' and 'Pamela' which have shorter stalks but retain the usual large flowers.

To grow Amaryllis, plant in well drained potting compost (that does not contain pine bark). Use a standard-depth pot, that is around 2 cm larger in circumference than the bulb, and has adequate drainage holes. Carefully plant the bulb, with 1/2 to 1/3 above the rim of the pot. After planting, thoroughly wet the compost with lukewarm water. Then keep it moist, but not wet and avoid watering over the bulb nose. Too much water will encourage the leaf growth and stunt the stems.

Initially grow at 20°C to 24°C until bulb begins to root and the leaves and floral stalk(s) begin to grow. Afterwards, any temperature from 18°C to 24°C can be used. When in flower, the coolest area in the home is best. In the home, the plant should be kept in a well-lighted area. A southern exposure is best. When the plant is flowering, keep it out of direct sunlight as this helps to promote a longer flower life.

After the plant begins to grow, fertilization is essential. Use either a complete nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium (NPK) slow- release fertilizer that lasts several months or a liquid (NPK) fertilizer, 2 to 4 times per month.

As the flowers fade, carefully cut them off. After all flowers fade, carefully cut the floral stalk off just above the bulb nose.

If the bulb is healthy and possibly grown in size it can be re-flowered. There are two schools of though for this; one that gives the Amaryllis rest and one that does not. The rest method is to store the bulb at a around 12°C for a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks. Do not water and place the bulb in a cool storage area or, place the plant in a cool (also around 12°C) growing location for 8 to 10 weeks. The active method is to keep watering to encourage bulb growth.

If the bulbs have been grown for 2 or more years, most will produce daughter bulblets. One can handle these bulbs in one of two ways. First, the bulbs can be transferred to a larger pot with the bulblets left attached. By doing this, a large number of flowering bulbs will ultimately be growing in a single pot. This creates quite a show. Alternatively, the bulblets can be carefully removed from the mother bulb and each of them planted in individual pots. Normally, this takes place after the bulbs have been stored dry for 8 to 10.

Few diseases or insects are encountered when buying bulbs. The major potential disease is Stagonospora (Fire or Red Spot). Problem insects can be mites, thrips, and mealybugs.
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